S/S 2014 Womenswear – focus on Thom Browne

 

Dearest readers,

 

Here’s my selection of noticeable looks from the latest fashion weeks, I suppose I may just let the images speak for themselves first :

 

Ackermann ss14 ACNE ss14 1 AF Vandevorst ss14 ann sofie back ss14 2 Armani ss14 Balenciaga ss14 baptista ss14 Cedric Charlier ss14  Chalayan ss14 1  Christopher kane ss14 christopher_kane_ss14 david koma ss14 Demeulemeester ss14

Haider Ackermann, ACNE, A.F. Vandevorst, Anne-Sofie Back, Armani, Balenciaga, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Cédric Charlier, Hussein Chalayan, Christopher Kane (détail), Christopher Kane, Chloé, David Koma, Ann Demeulemeester.
Givenchy ss14 2  hexa by kuho ss14 2 Jacquemus SS14 KTZ ss14 lacoste ss14 2 Le Tan ss14 Lemaire ss14 Lespagnard ss14 marni ss14 McCartney ss14 2 Melitta Baumeister ss14 MM6 ss14 1 Nicolas_Andreas_Taralis ss14 1 piece_d_anarchive ss14 2

Givenchy, Hexa by Kuho, Jacquemus, KTZ, Lacoste, Olympia Le Tan, Christopher Lemaire, Jean-Paul Lespagnard, Marni, Stella McCartney, Melissa Baumeister, MM6, Nicolas Andreas Taralis, Pièce d’Anarchive.
pilotto jacket + shirt ss14 Proenza schouler ss14 Undercover ss14 Van Noten ss14 2 Vaulthier ss14 Vionnet ss14 Vuitton ss14 headpiece Westwood red ss14 2 Westwood ss14 1

Peter Pilotto, Undercover, Dries Van Noten, Alexander Vaulthier, Vionnet, Louis Vuitton, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Vivienne Westwood Gold Label.

 

But the most exciting show (if we put aside Louis Vuitton’s marvellous set) turned out to be that of my (current) favourite American designer, Thom Browne.

Browne gave us a delightfully twisted vision of a delirious woman, by turn nurse and patient, whose descent into madness transpired through her ravishingly embellished pure-white clothes (the intricate details and textures of the garments were truly astonishing).

 

t browne ss14 show-1 t browne ss14 show-3 t browne ss14 show-4 t browne ss14 show-5 t browne ss14 show-6 Thom Browne SS14-1 Thom Browne SS14-3 Thom Browne SS14-4 Thom Browne SS14-5

1046693 thom browne backstage 3 Thom Browne ss14 closeup

 All images from style.com, wwd.com, dazeddigital.com

 

Baisers,

E.

Scraps : Samson & Delilah by VV Brown

 

Dearest readers,

 
After a few months of silence and desperation (holidays), I am finally back on track, über-excited by the upcoming changes (yes, you should stay connected) and pleased to announce that I will from now on be writing from London.

To mark this new beginning, I wanted to share with you the latest musical gem I had the chance to discover live at Rough Trade East a few days ago. There she stood, barefoot on the shop’s small stage, proudly facing the audience clad in a black coat and white pants, her hair untied.

 

IMG00577-20130920-1855

 

I bet you already know VV Brown, or at least you must have heard her catchy Shark in the Water track – from her album Travelling Like the Light – that rightfully buzzed in 2009 (god I’m old) – see also Leave.

 

vv-brown-the-apple

 

After the aborted Lollipops & Politics project, Vanessa Brown is finally back with Samson & Delilah, a brand new album with which she makes quite a shift, turning to darker tones and brighter synths in a slightly saturated atmosphere – to my utmost delight, of course.

Introduced with the somewhat stripped-down, Oriental(istic) aesthetics of two recently-released intriguing videoclips (Samson, The Apple), Samson & Delilah barely recalls VV’s early works but her vibrant voice carries this musical piece to unexpected heights, adding a somehow richer and more genuine feel to it.

 

vv-brown-samson-video

 

Near the end of her acclaimed performance, she declared : « What you hear is really true, truly me. » and this new album does sound like a primal, interior quest to maturity – which she brilliantly achieved.

 

VV-Brown-Samson-Delilah-2013-Alternate

 

My personal favorites from Samson & Delilah’s track list: Faith, I Can Give You More, Igneous, The Apple, Ghosts, Warrior

 
CS503283-01B-BIG

 

VV Brown will be performing on October 17 at Electrowerkz in London, her performance will be accompanied by a video projection (of her videoclips followed by a twenty-minute-long short film).

 

Baisers,

E.

CHERYL (WILL RUIN YOUR LIFE)

 

Dearest readers,

 

Haven’t you heard of the incredible CHERYL ?

Who are they ? What are they ? Where do they come from ?

 

CHERYL is a wildly creative gang composed of four young Brooklynites who started throwing insane costume parties around NYC about five years ago. They’ve since been touring Europe, setting up parties in the most unexpected places, and are just about to invade Paris for the very first time on Saturday.

Let me introduce you to the delightful Nick Schiarizzi, CHERYL’s resident DJ, who kindly accepted to shed some light on CHERYL’s nightly fabulousness before Saturday’s exclusive CHERYL WILL RUIN YOUR LIFE party at the Nuba, the new trendy bar on top of the Docks.

 

Capture d’écran 2013-07-03 à 12.21.02

 

 

– What does CHERYL stand for ? Is there a specific meaning attached to this name ?

 

CHERYL is our name, but it’s pretty hard for us to explain why. Initially the name made us laugh, as it’s a bit of an awkward name for a party and artist collective. But over time we’ve come to realize it’s the perfect name for us, for reasons we can’t completely describe. Some of us think it’s an everyday name – everyone in the US knows a CHERYL – others in our group think it’s a reference to the people we grew up with.

 

– Why this uncanny fascination with blood and glitter ?

 

CHERYL is all about realizing you’re alive, and pushing everything to the extreme. When you get that perspective on things, to not take anything for granted, and to party as hard as possible (because why wouldn’t you?), things come together, and CHERYL comes to life. A lot of our themes have to do with mortality and blood obviously ties in with that. The glitter just takes everything to the next level.

 

Capture d’écran 2013-07-03 à 12.16.05

 

– What do you think of the attitude of our generation toward partying ? Do you feel young people are more eager to party and participate in costume parties ?

 

We think partying is different everywhere, and everyone has a different reason for partying. It’s a bit hard to answer this question in a general way, but we find that there are plenty of young people, new to clubbing and partying, who love what we do, just as much as some of the older, more seasoned club-goers. I think that people are equally excited across the ages to come and party with us and get dressed up – the younger ones might self-destruct a bit more on the dance floor, which we appreciate.

 

– Does Cheryl ever get political ?

 

No. Along with being semi-anonymous, which allows us to put the spotlight back on the crowd instead of on us, we try to make our party accessible to anyone – we don’t all have the same political beliefs within our group, and we don’t try to preach to our crowd in any way. There are parties in Brooklyn that are heavily political, so people have that option if they want it, but we don’t usually go into that territory.

 

Capture d’écran 2013-07-03 à 12.37.08

 

– What do you think makes Brooklyn such a suitable place for emerging or independent artists and performers ? 

 

New York has always been the cultural hub of the United States, being our largest, most international, and most important arts city, and in recent years, Manhattan, where everything was once centered, has become too expensive for most artists to live in. So Brooklyn is just the continuation of what New York has always been doing, just pushed across the river for those of us who are not independently wealthy.

 

– You haven’t performed in France yet, have you ? But you’ve performed in London, Berlin, Barcelona and Lisbon. How is European nightlife different from NYC’s ?

 

We have not yet performed in France, but we are very excited about it. Nightlife is different in each city in Europe – some cities have a hard time letting loose, some cities go all out and rage, some cities want to transform your party into a techno bear rave. I think that each city takes what we’re giving them and makes it work in their own special way. In New York, you have the Brooklyn scene which is more DIY, affordable, scrappy, creative, etc and often is a mixed gay/straight crowd. In places like East London, the crowd is often exactly the same as Brooklyn.

 

Capture d’écran 2013-07-03 à 12.18.53

 

– You have partied at the MoMA in NY, how did that go ? Did it go as well as you expected it would ? 

 

The MoMA party was so fun. We took over the first floor of MoMA and projected our videos in a huge atrium on the second floor. One thousand people bought tickets and it was one of those moments where we felt really proud of CHERYL. We had a bunch of interactive mannequin stations, a mannequin DJ, and some brief performances on the floor, and then it morphed into a huge dance party which I DJed. It was a great night for us.

 

– What was the most memorable place you set up a party at ? Where would you dream to throw a party ?

 

A patio in the middle of Madrid, a pier on the East River in Manhattan, or underneath an elevated highway in Brooklyn with our mobile dance party van. Those are some pretty weird places for us. We would love to throw a party on an airplane – imagine how quickly the flight would pass by, and how fun it would be during turbulence with strobe lights.

 

Capture d’écran 2013-07-03 à 12.20.11

 

– The party you threw at the MoMA celebrated the Cindy Sherman retrospective, and she obviously is one of your sources of inspiration. What are the persons, icons, artists & works that most inspire you ?

 

We have a lot of sources of inspiration. Some from pop culture, some from the dollar store. A lot of stuff from our childhood, like obscure movies and shopping malls and television shows that stuck in our memory. We have a lot of respect for contemporary artists like Cindy, but I’d say our main sources of inspiration come from some pretty unexpected sources. We love T-Boz from TLC and her trademark mushroom tendril hair. She inspires us. We also love Count Chocula, the chocolate dracula cereal we have in the US. We love the 1980 movie « The Apple » about a future 1994 in an America run by a record executive named Mr Boogaloo. We love cats. And we like shitty hair extensions you can buy at dollar stores. These things inspire us.

 

– Does fashion influence your work in some way ?

 

Definitely – our party is all about the costumes. Our themes encourage our partygoers to create their own costumes out of everyday materials, and make their costume debut at our party. It’s one of the few parties I know of where people come in costume everytime, but there’s no bad attitude or snobbiness about it – it’s always fun and funny and impressive how creative people get.

 

Capture d’écran 2013-07-03 à 12.15.17

 

– Any musical crush you’d like to share with us ?

 

Many – Michael McDonald, Toni Braxton, Todd Terje, TEED, Matthew Dear, and Sylvester to name a few.

 

See you Saturday !

 

Capture d’écran 2013-07-03 à 12.38.29

 

Baisers,

E.

To celebrate both the French fête de la musique and the beginning of summer.

 

Dear readers,

 

Here’s a new playlist to celebrate both the French fête de la musique and the beginning of summer.

Please note that some of the songs (the highlighted ones) also feature great videoclips !

 

Baisers,

E.

 

Ce Matin Là-Air

 

Sprawl II (Mountains Beyond Mountains)-Arcade Fire

 

Desert Island-Architecture In Helsinki

 

It’s Alright (62 French Girls Can’t Be Wrong Remix)-Bang Gang

 

L’Idéal-Barbara Carlotti

 

Sutphin Boulevard-Blood Orange

 

Oh La La-Brigitte

 

Faye Dunaway (French Kiss Mafia Remix)-Casey Spooner

 

Illuminata-Ceo

 

Keep You-Class Actress

 

Only Love-Cyan Kid (ft. Loki)

 

Life Slash Dreams-Dan Black

 

Märchen Von Der Wolk remix-David Keller

 

Your Loft My Acid-Death In Vegas

 

I Feel Love (long version)-Donna Summer

 

The Heat-Easter

 

Tombé Pour La France-Etienne Daho

 

Dreamer-FM Attack

 

Paradise-Lana Del Rey

 

Sky Fits Heaven-Madonna

 

Hurricane-MS MR

 

The Sun-The Naked And Famous

 

Who’s Joe?-New Order

 

Self Control (Bottin Edit)-Raf

 

Losing You (Cyril Hahn Remix)-Solange

 

Two of Hearts-Stacey Q

 

I’ll Try Anything Once-The Strokes

 

End Title-Thomas Newman (Revolutionary Road)

 

Joyeux-Vive la Fête

 

Amor Fati-Washed Out

 

Mon Pays-Yelle

 

Daydream-Youth Lagoon

 

Scraps : Mohini Geisweiller

 

Dear readers,

278815004_640

 

Former lead singer of Sex in Dallas, Mohini Geisweiller strayed from the mildly-scandalous electroclash band to start a solo career which culminated in the release of Event Horizon in 2011.

Mohini gently lays her delicate, slightly shaded voice over dreamy, uncomplicated artificial tunes popping from a tiny Casio keyboard. Akin to her clean, intimate minimal electropop, her first videoclip Milk Teeth (directed by photographer Cyrille de Vignemont) distills a pure, mysterious and ethereal atmosphere in which her pretty face fits perfectly.

 

photo_1298056410

 

This friday (June 21), Mohini Geisweiller will be playing with Nicolas Ker at 2am inside Saint-Eustache cathedral for the Parisian fête de la musique.

 

Donnemarie-Dontilly

Paris 2013

Toward (Koudlam remix)

Cyrille de Vignemont - 1

 

Baisers,

E.

Crush : TRUST

 

Dearest readers,

 

First, facts : Trust is a Canadian band from Toronto that was until recently formed by Robert Alfons and Maya Postepski – who’s also been playing in the band Austra and recently left the project in Alfons’s sole hands.

Their first album is entitled TRST (funny how removing vowels makes everything look more interesting) and features a lovely analog-like cover picture representing a somehow withered and dazed transvestite in front of a blank background.

The band’s European tour is now over, and I got the opportunity to see them live a week ago – a previous series of mishaps having prevented me to do so in January.

 

trust-album

 

Now that I have told you that set of pointless though useful banalities, I may get overly emotional and attempt to describe what it is that makes their music so exceptional.

 

TRUST

 

TRST immerses you into the obscurity of moist nightclubs and sleepless nights, bathing your ear in waves of artificial sounds and mesmerizing melodies. At once unsettling and strangely seductive, sultry and whispery, Alfons’s saturated voice sprawls through curls of smoke and neon lights to startle and caress your senses. Carried by exquisite synthetic tunes and trance-inducing beats, TRST’s songs softly wreathe around you, infusing an irrepressible urge to close your eyes and wave along their rhythm. Still, TRST is not all about frenetic dancing and repressed sexual drives, as an unusual poetry quietly oozes from the album’s cryptic words.

 

IMG_1724

 

Candy Walls, Shoom, Bulbform, Dressed for Space, Gloryhole & Sulk (listen to this delightful piano version of Sulk) certainly are, in my opinion, the most outstanding songs from the album. As far as I know, there are only two noteworthy remixes of Trust’s songs, one of Candy Walls and the other of Sulk.

If you still haven’t listened to it, you can find the entire album here. You may also discover a few exclusive songs on their myspace page, and I don’t think this song has a title yet.

 

tumblr_mf34uvtU5L1r6xivl

 

Baisers,

E.

 

PS : Did I forget to mention that Robert Alfons is also incredibly handsome ?

He incidentally modeled for an i-D magazine editorial, clad in some J.W. Anderson clothes.

 

1353723023_4123_trust

 

http://ttrustt.com/

Music: focus on sheer blondness

 

Dear readers,

 For some obscure and irrational reason, having bleached my own hair appeared to me as the perfect excuse to give you a playlist focused on sheer blondness.

 
 

With no further ado :

 

Nico – These Days (wistful blond)

Bonus : this extract from a Wes Anderson movie featuring neurasthenic blonde Margot Tenenbaum)

The Golden Filter – Solid Gold (electro blond)

Lady Gaga – Eh Eh (Nothing Else I Can Say) (blond wig)

Cool – Gwen Stefani (nostalgic blond)

Bonus : another cute blond girl iceskating on this song (Elle Fanning)

Blondie – Maria (blond rock)

Amanda Lear – Forget It (disco blond)

Iggy Azalea – Work (twerking blond)

Fake – Brick (ethereal blond sidekick)

Don’t Touch My Hair – Brooke Candy (West Coast blond)

Rollergirl – Dear Jessie (90’s blond)

Brigitte Bardot – Moi Je Joue (« Tu les aimes mes… » blond)

Die Antwoord – Baby’s On Fire (Zef blond)

Austra – Spellwork (mystic blond)

iamamiwhoami – u-2 (cryptic blond)

Cindy Lauper – I Drove All Night (was-once-famous blond)

Vive la Fête – Amour Physique (lusty blond)

Fever Ray – Triangle Walks (avant-garde blond)

Samantha Fox – Touch Me (brainless blond)

Little Boots – Tune Into My Heart (Tenori-on blond)

Kim Carnes – Bette Davis Eyes (raucous blond)

Kim Wilde – Who do you think you are ? (Cambodia blond)

Robyn – Hang With Me (Swedish blond)

Stacey Q – Two of Hearts (cheesy blond)

JJ – Ecstacy (Swedish blond duo)

Paris Hilton – Nothing in this World (blond heiress)

Zola Jesus – Vessel (dark blond)

Goldfrapp – A&E (natural blond)

Nancy Sinatra – These Boots Are Made for Walkin’ (classic blond)

Julien Doré – Glenn Close (Bichon blond)

Boytronic – Hurts (new wave blond)

Michael Pitt – Hey Joe (big-lipped blond)

 

Baisers,

E.

 

Report: Cinema, Couture, Cannes.

Dear readers,

 
As the 2013 Cannes Festival is drawing to a close, I wanted to give you my point of view on what was worth remembering, watching and laughing at. So here we go.

First, I’m going to deal with movies, because it is precisely what the festival is about – even though the flood of couture-clad celebrities and pointless gossip may have got you confused. (Did I actually watch it ? Of course I didn’t. I caught everything up on the internet, as usual.)

The first movie that caught my attention was obviously the Great Gatsby by Australian director Baz Luhrmann, because I did love Romeo + Juliette and Moulin Rouge, and couldn’t resist the call of his whirlwind of sparkling images and great soundtrack (Back to Black & Young and Beautiful notably – plus this addictive remix). However, it unfortunately did not live up to my expectations : the overwhelming artificiality along with an enduring feeling of déjà-vu slaughtered the emotion.

 

kristin-scott-thomas-only-god-forgives

 

I have yet to see Only God Forgives by Drive’s director Nicolas Winding Refn but I am really eager to watch lovely Kristin Scott Thomas play the unusual role of a « merciless and terrifying mafia godmother » (why does her character uncannily remind me of Donatella ?). Besides, I hope Nicky will once again grace us with an excellent soundtrack.

Then, the Coen Brothers (Fargo, The Big Lebowski, Burn After Reading) are back with Inside Llewyn Davis, a film about a folk singer featuring seemingly ubiquitous Carey Mulligan and Garrett Hedlund (On the Road’s sweaty heartthrob – I still cannot get over him).

You might also want to see Jim Jarmusch‘s doomed vampire love story Only Lovers Left Alive quite simply because Tilda Swinton plays in it – trust me, Narnia put aside, my beloved Tilda remains quite a fantastic quality indicator.

 

Only-Lovers-Left-Alive-still

 

As I Lay Dying by « polymath » James Franco may also be worthy of your attention as an adaptation of the classic American novel by William Faulkner (and since Franco seems to be almost as talented as everyone claims he is) as well as the intriguing Borgman by Alex Van Warmerdam (Netherlands).

Excellent directors such as François Ozon (Huit Femmes, Sitcom, Dans la Maison) and Asghar Farhadi (rewarded with a Golden Bear, a Golden Globe and an Academy Award for A Separation) may also surprise you with, respectively, Jeune et Jolie and Le Passé.

 

3824702262

 

Last but not least, the new film Sofia Coppola movie The Bing Ring, starring Emma Watson, promises to be quite interesting – and I say that from a completely subjective point of view since The Virgin Suicides still is one of my favorite movies and I have always been fond of the exquisitely dreamy atmosphere she suffuses her films with.

 

45029-Emma-Watson--The-Bling-Ring--I-T58q

 

Let’s take a look at fashion now. In the midst of the sickening evening gowns (which I could never stand) and über-boring suits, here are the few outfits that stood out :

 

nicole_kidman_en_christian_dior_haute_couture_printemps___t___2013_699622123_north_545x marion_cotillard_en_christian_dior_croisi__re_2014_8773_north_545x Louise Bourgoin Giambatista Valli  SS13

Liya Kebede Cavalli FW13 li_yuchun_en_givenchy_haute_couture_automne_hiver_2013_2013_39571727_north_545x Coppola Vuitton SS13

All images from en.vogue.fr

 

Baisers,

E.

Scraps : Iris Van Herpen

 

Why write about Iris Van Herpen now, when her designs have almost lost the shimmering veil of novelty (- or have they) ?

 

Why, simply because she is one of the lucky seven finalists of the ANDAM (National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts) Fashion Award, whose former recipients notably include Julien David, Anthony Vaccarello, Yiqing Yin, Gareth Pugh, Felipe Oliveira Baptista & Bernhard Willhelm, among others. And while I don’t want to bet on her odds of winning, I thought it might be a great time to look back on her remarkable work, which was – by the way – exhibited at the Groninger Museum last year.

 

'Chemical Crows' AW 08:09 2 IrisVHerpenSS11-624 irisvanherpencapriole-0887

 

Forget the now-outdated seams and cuts, Van Herpen’s Haute Couture approach on fashion-design favors high-complexity structures and intricate organic shapes that often flirt with the super-natural, uncannily resembling organisms infused with a life of their own.

A 3D-printing and laser-cutting genius, Iris delights in dissecting old-fashioned as well as cutting-edge design techniques and materials so as to explore unexpected territories in fashion, reaching realms where the functional and the commercial have very little say.

 

radiationss10-344b irisvh-ah1213-486 Iris van Herpen, Voltage

 

However, beyond « mere » technical prowesses, Van Herpen’s approach is primarily driven by relevant reflexions on clothing and its possible future evolutions, each collection bringing up new sets of proposals.

Unsurprisingly, she seeks inspiration from wonderfully intriguing topics : [chronogically] alchemy & crows, refinery smoke, Egyptian mummification, invisible radiations, synesthesia, virtual entertainment, parachute jumping, micro-organisms, hylozoic architecture & electricity.

 

RadiationSS10-468 irisvanherpencapriole-0780iris_van_herpen_025_detail_em

 

If her extraordinary clothes won’t easily bend to the wearer’s will and figure, they certainly create a fascinatingly-challenging dialogue with the human body, a symbiosis on the edge of wearability.

And those wondering if her creations will ever suit real-life hysteria should rejoice since she will soon launch her first womenswear line, whose preview features Canadian singer Grimes – such a suitable combination, isn’t it ?

 

grimes-model1 Iris van herpen womenswear  iris_van_herpen_img_2094_north_623x

 Iris Van Herpen x United Nude

iris_van_herpen_172-LRG

Iris Van Herpen’s website

 

Baisers,
E. 

Quotes

 

Dear readers,

 

I thought that I’d be nice to give you some cultural material to nibble on before we all dance the night away at tonight’s House of Moda (LaJava, Paris), You will therefore find a selection of quotations – outstanding ones, obviously – I collected through my extensive research on various fashion-related topics.

 

Baisers,

E.

 

 

« Deny the reality. It’s not true. Let’s change ! Let’s break it ! This is the artist’s role. »

Yohji Yamamoto

 

 

« La mode est la recherche toujours vaine, souvent ridicule, parfois dangereuse, d’une beauté supérieure idéale. »

Maxime du Camp (1895)

 

 

« I see fashion as communication. In every collection I do, I like to tell a story, or I like to make a statement that reflects my personal vision on fashion and our world. »

Walter Van Beirendonck

 

 

« We live an artificial life in an artificial town. So why all this naturalness ? It’s bloody boring. A form of laziness. »

Diana Vreeland

 

 

« Il faut s’habiller comme on le sent, comme on souhaite se montrer aux autres, non seulement aux amis qui vous connaissent bien, mais aussi aux collègues de travail et aux connaissances de rencontre qui constamment vous jugent. »

Elsa Schiaparelli

 

« Comme Scott Fitzgerald, j’aime les délires mortels. J’aime Visconti et les époques troublées comme dans Senso. La décadence m’attire. Elle annonce un monde nouveau, et, pour moi, le combat d’une société prise entre la vie et la mort est absolument magnifique à observer. »

 
« Toute création n’est qu’une re-création, une façon nouvelle de voir les mêmes choses, de les exprimer différemment, de les préciser, d’en exalter un angle jusque là inaperçu ou d’en accuser les contours. »

Yves Saint Laurent

 

 

« Everything I’ve done was for the purpose of making women look stronger. »

Alexander McQueen

 

 

« Upper fashion has disappeared with all the information you get now […] It’s almost like the idea of subculture has disappeared as well. »

Martin Andersson

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